
162 Orchard St
New York, NY 10002
Phone: (212) 353-3570
The Scene
The restaurant takes its decor cues from the Lower East Side's clubby metamorphoses. A front bar in hues of orange and brown doubles as a waiting area for the spare, modern dining room. Attentive servers handle tables of dressed-up clubbers and subdued older couples with equal grace.
The Food
Start with a thin flatbread--the chanterelle mushroom is a heavenly mix of creamy polenta, savory mushroom puree--while perusing the menu influenced, but certainly not restrained, by Italy. Diners can construct a table-sharing first course of tuna tartare, scooping fresh yellowfin atop crisped plaintains, but will want to keep the garlicky clam, mussel and chorizo bouillabaisse to themselves. Mains like striped bass infused with lemon and white wine or lamb chops brightened by mint impress in quality and presentation, but never leap into "ooh and ahh" territory. Though the dessert churros arrive too crispy, a dunk in liquid chocolate eases the crunch.
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